Showing posts with label Au ver a Soie. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Au ver a Soie. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Death's Head buttons and thread comparisons part 1

 

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett

This post is really a bit of a repeat of a blog post I made way over 10 years ago, comparing threads when working a straightforward death's head wrap.
Of course, back then, the image was interesting, but probably not that helpful - I can't even identify all the threads! But now, with phone cameras being so good, I thought I would revisit this.

All of these buttons have been worked over our No 117 turned wood mould (20mm).

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett

Starting with Presencia Finca Cotton Perle, in sizes 12 and 8.

Size 8 perle is my teaching go to. It is easy to see the thread placement, covers well, and still retains a nice sheen. When I want something finer, I go for the size 12. I think it is good to start with a thread that isn't going to break the bank, or be scary to work with, especially when teaching and designing. These both do this job really well. It also has the benefit of being on a ball, so no guessing how much thread you'll need - very helpful in a workshop situation!

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett


We place stranded embroidery thread into a few of our kits. The button on the left was worked with a single strand, and you can see how a finish more like a floss silk can be achieved - so it is perfect when wanting to show the patterns more clearly. The button on the right uses all 6 strands at the same time - however, in order to achieve the shiny look, I did separate all strands then lay them back together first. This removes the twist and gives a more flossy look to the thread. 
Again, this is a really affordable way to start practising more complex designs - the biggest issue is cutting the length and separating the strands, but at least you can add more thread if you've cut too little.

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett

Next up, 
a DeVere 36 twist filament silk, 

In all of these, the thread is so fine you can just see the mould beneath. In actual fact, this is much more obvious on the photo than in real life. However, for darker threads, I would normally colour the mould to stop the contrast - a black sharpie works a treat, and black coloured button moulds are known. But that wouldn't have been the best comparison for you.
All are good threads for more complex woven designs, where the spaces become invisible as well. The Marathon was probably the trickiest, and I did wax the mould on this one. I like the way the cross is nicely pronounced on the Rajmahal button.

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett

Au Ver s Soie:

The Soie D'Alger is a spun silk, and I have used a single strand (it is divisible as with DMC cotton). It has a nice soft sheen and lovely to work with. Being softer than the tighter twists of the previous image, it fills the spaces better. It is a nice affordable silk choice I think, but, as with all spun silks, the sheen is a little less than with filament.

The wool is one of my favourite threads actually. It is the perfect weight for thread buttons. I know, I've chosen a rather darker colour, so perhaps hard to see, but it really is lovely to work with for a very different look.

Death's head (deathshead / death head) buttons by Gina Barrett

Au Ver a Soie :

Three of my favourite threads for wrapped buttons. They are all filament (or reeled) silk.
Gobelins is perfect for fancy woven and interwoven designs, it is super fine and you need good lighting! A button made with this does take time, but usually is worth it.

The perlee is lovely for tidy silk buttons. Like a cotton perle, there is a twist, which makes it good for weaving and for grappe techniques. It's very similar to historical weight silk twists, and works well for multi colour wraps.

The ovale -  this flat silk is just perfect for a glossy death's head. All of the single colour wraps work really well with this, as you can see, the cross really stands out beautifully yet the individual wraps have melded to appear as though one. You need to keep if flat as you work for best effect, so bear that in mind.


And before anyone says - yes, I know it would have been good to get the colours all the same. But, that's not actually possible for some of the threads, and I did think it best to not raid stock just for this post! I've enough threads to get the examples done. :)

There are still a few to come, so watch this space!

Stay safe and well all of you.











Saturday, March 07, 2020

The travelling buttons

A selection of silk thread passementerie buttons by Gina Barrett

Last weekend saw me rushing to get the above buttons sent over to Paris for the Au Ver a Soie exhibition by courier in the week. In the end, it was too painful for me to actually make any new buttons. It was not worth risking longer term damage. I had some in my samples made with their silk, and decided after much deliberation, to send others that made up part of my One Button a Day challenge in 2016

This was a big thing for me. I've cut them from their tags to mount them here, and there is always the very real possibility that they will go missing - either on the way out, or the way back to me. 

They've arrived safely in Paris, so stage one complete. 

Except the exhibition has now been cancelled until June, as the French government has banned gathering of over 200 people until then. 

So, I will get to stress for half the year. And, I could possibly have made new, different ones in a month or so, and would not have needed to take from the set. 

If anyone is interested, the mount for these was printed from our Button Backing Cards & Mounts CD - I printed it onto printable fabric, left the backing paper in place to stitch through. I think that by printing on the fabric the background better suits the fine silk of the buttons.

And so on to other news....

I have managed to complete the first slideshow of this year's buttons and have popped it over onto YouTube. I hope to have the second one completed this weekend. 



Sunday, February 23, 2020

Two birds with one button

Lots of pretty silks from Au Ver a Soie

On Friday I was been asked to contribute some buttons to an exhibition in Paris which I am totally thrilled about.
Au Ver a Soi silks is celebrating their 200th anniversary and will be exhibiting items from around the world that use their silks. I'm really honoured that I have been asked - but the deadline is really short.

And of course I can't use my thumb for long.

I know this is going to prolong the injury, as I'll be working more than One Button a Day - but I am determined to get a nice selection over to France.

Working with silk is different from working with cotton. It is slippery, and some modern designs don't work so well. Of course, the original passementerie buttons were usually made of silk, but I'd rather not simply go with the traditional for this exhibition, that would be too easy really. I'd like to add a few that are unique.

I've pretty much planned what I will do, and how they will be presented, and as I am currently also working on two books, have set everything up to take step by step pictures of the ones that are relevant. In theory, that will save some time in a few months. The set up is also all ready for videos, so I spent a long time playing with different settings and not actually buttoning... 

Wish me luck!

My set up - lights, overhead holder for camera, more lights...

Saturday, January 04, 2020

If it's too good to be true...


For those of you who buy Au Ver a Soie silks from us, please be on the lookout for outlets / people selling them cheap.

It turns out that between Christmas and New Year, the Au Ver A Soie factory in France was robbed. This is a huge blow to the small company, who really had managed to get themselves back on a good footing after losing virtually everything in a major fire a few years back.

They announced this theft on their social media pages, and it seems from the translations that the majority of what was taken was their Soie de Paris, Tram and Perlee, along with their sewing silks, "surfine" and 1003.

I am not sure how the stolen items were packaged, but they do have loose skeins, and have been using more and more of the reels as you can see in the image above. If the mini perlee has been taken, these are on little wooden spools, and is the tram silk (often used for fly fishing), and occasionally cardboard spools are used. The image shows some of the options.

Please - if you see any of their products sold at prices too good to be true on outlets such as eBay, etc, let them know at info@auverasoie.com - I am sure they would rather be falsely notified of a real seller then not told about a seller that is actually a thief.

Of course, this may mean that some colours and types are not able to be ordered for a while, as they will need to get their stocks back on track.